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Dear friend.
Your home furnishings are a
major investment. In this page you will find
some simple steps you can take to keep your new
furniture looking their best. You'll also find
some smart tips on how to minimize wear, prevent
and remove common household stains. As well as a wealth of information that will help you
understand the different choices in styles and types of
furniture coverings, leathers and wood finishes.

Leather
Leather
is one of the most durable upholstery materials
available. Choosing leather is a long term
investment in beauty and durability. Today's wide
selection of leather colors, grades and finishes,
coupled with a designer's bounty of style options,
lets you create the look you want, for many years to
come.
Understanding
Leather...
Natural /
Full aniline / Semi-aniline
For a leather look that
ages gracefully and delivers a sophisticated
message, choose one of the natural grades. Naturals include full and semi-aniline grades with
full anilines being luxurious and smooth--the
softest of the leather grades. Semi-anilines are
more durable naturals.
Protected /
Pigmented / Split leathers
Your active family
household can enjoy the beauty of real leather when
you choose one of the protected grades. Pigmented,
split leathers are treated to create a durable
finish that stands up to everyday living with
children and pets,. without sacrificing fashion or
function.
Have
questions about buying leather furniture? You're not
alone. With the range of styles, grades and colors
available, buying leather furniture can seem
overwhelming. Here are some commonly asked questions
& answers.
1. Where
do leathers come from and why are there so many
choices and price differences?
Leather is sourced from all over the world.
Furniture leathers come primarily from tanneries in
South America, Germany and Italy. Every leather is
individually assessed for its quality and use,
resulting in a range of prices and grades which
allow you to match your leather to your budget and
lifestyle.
2. How is
leather made?
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The leather process |
The processing of hides and skins into leather
is a fascinating procedure that requires a
precise combination of many che mical and
mechanical operations. Below a step-by-step summary of these
processing operations.
CUTTING
A hide of genuine leather is nature's product
and caution must be exercised in cutting one.
The diagram below s hows various areas of a
hide and they are cut as follows:
Section A, the prime portion of the hide, should be used
for seat tops,
inside backs, cushion bands, and other
sections that will receive the most strain and
usage.
Section B should be used for outside arms,
backs, hidden bands, or other parts of
furniture that will receive little or no
usage. The flank sections must be used on
outside backs and non-wearing surfaces.
CURING
Deterioration begins immediately when a cow is
killed. After the hides are removed from the
carcass, they are salted through and through
at the slaughterhouses to prevent decay. After
they are salted, 55% of the water in the hide
is removed, and they are dried for 3 to 6
days. The rawhides are then sold to tanneries.
SOAKING
In order for the tanning process to work
properly, the dry salted hides must be washed
free of the salt. This is done by soaking the
hides in water to which chemical wetting
agents (similar to household detergents) and
disinfectants are usually added for 8 to 20
hours, depending on the thickness of the
hides. This soaking procedure re-hydrates the
hides to their original flaccid condition and
removes the dirt .
DE-HAIRING
The hair must now be removed from the hides,
(left photo). This is done by soaking the hides in
chemicals, or depilatory agents, whi ch destroy
the hair by attacking the hair root so it will
release freely from the hides, loosen the
epidermis, and remove certain soluble skin
proteins that lie within the hide substance
without destroying the desirable collagen of
the hides.
FLESHING
Excess flesh, fat and muscle must now be
removed from the hides. This is done with a
fleshing machine.
DE-LIMING
All the depilatory chemicals must now be
removed from the hides. This is done by
washing the hides in ammonium sulfate or
ammonium chloride and then clear water in big
drums (right photo). These chemicals not only clean the
depilatory chemicals from the hides, they also
adjust the acid-alkaline conditions (pH) to
the proper point for receiving the bate-which
are enzymes similar to those found in the
digestive system of animals. When the bates
are applied, they attack and destroy most of
the remaining undesirable constituents of the
hide.
PICKLING
The hides must be placed in an acid
environment (low pH) so they will be ready to
accept the tanning materials, because chrome
tanning a gents
are not soluble under alkaline conditions. This
is accomplished by adding salt and acid to the
hides. This is a preserving process in itself,
and hides can be kept in this state for extended
periods of time without any deterioration.
TANNING
The raw collagen fibers of the hides must be
converted into a stable product which is no
longer susceptible to rotting. This is done by
adding chrome tanning agents to the hides in a
revolving drum. These tanning agents also
significantly improve the hide"s dimensional
stability, abrasion resistance, resistance to
chemicals and to heat, the ability to flex
innumerable times without breaking, and the
ability to endure repeated cycles of wetting
and drying.
WRINGING
The excess moisture must be removed from the
hides. This is done by placing each hide
through two large rollers similar to those on
a clothes wringer.
SPLITTING
The hides must now be split into the desired
thickness. Un-split hides average to be 5mm
thick. The thickness for upholstery leathers
range from .9mm to 2.0mm. The hides are put
through a splitting machine that is set to
split the hides to the desired thickness. It
cuts the top grain off first (right photo). Another layer,
and sometimes two, are cut. These layers are
called splits.
SHAVING
The thickness of the hides must be made
uniform all over the hide. This is done with a
shaving machine through which the hides are
run. The helical shaped cutting blades level
the overall thickness to exact specifications
and open the fiber structure to better receive
subsequent che mical processing.
RE-TANNING
This process is done to impart special end-use
properties with other tanning chemicals. The
substances used add solidity and body to
chrome leather and help minimize variations in
the character of the leather that may still
exist between different parts of the hide
(left photo).
COLORING
As soon as the re-tanning process is completed,
aniline dyes, derived primarily from petroleum
and added to very hot water, are added to
rotating drums to penetrate the hides for
desired color.
FAT LIQUORING
This is the last of the wet chemical
operations to which the leather will be
subjected. Fat liquoring has the most
pronounced effect on how soft a leather will
be and it contributes greatly to its tensile
strength. The more fat liquors that are added,
the softer the hides will be.
SETTING OUT
This operation smoothes and stretches the
hide, while compressing and squeezing out the
excess moisture. This puts the hides in the
proper condition for drying.
TOGGLING
The hides are stretched across a perforated
frame and held in place with clips called
toggles. One hide is clipped to each sid e of
the frame. The frames are then slid into
channels in drying ovens.
STAKING
Leather is staked to make it pliable. In
combination with the correct fat liquoring
treatment, staking governs the final firmness
or softness of the leather (right photo).
DRY MILLING
The hides are placed in a large dry drum and
tumbled until the desired softness is
obtained.
BUFFING
This process improves the final appearance of
the hides by lightly sanding the surface to
remove some of the natural imperfections such
as scratches, healed scars, etc. It provides
the hide with better
cutting yield.
FINISHING
This process applies film-forming materials on
the surface of the hide. Here is where layers
of pigments are added if required. This
process also adds the protective sealant to
the surface.
PLATING (EMBOSSING)
This is the final step in the leather process
(left photo).
During this process, heat presses a chosen
grain into the surface of the hides.
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3. What is
the difference between top grain and split grain?
At the
tannery, a leather hide is split into 2 layers – top
grain and the lower grain or "split." The lower,
bottom grain is the flesh piece and may be split one
or more times. The lower grain is likely to be used
on the outside parts of a piece of furniture.
4. The
information I’ve heard about aniline and pigment
finishing is confusing. What does it all mean and
does it really make a difference?
Every
tanned hide is finished.
Pigment: protective opaque color which coats the
grain very consistently. It is the most durable,
stain resistant finish but is slightly cooler to the
touch.
Semi-aniline: combines aniline with pigment to
enhance uniformity in color and soil resistance
while remaining soft to the touch
Aniline: clear (transparent) organic stain,
which colors but doesn’t coat completely. It is less
stain resistant, but leaves the hide softer, more
pliable and warmer to the touch.
5. How can
I tell if my furniture is made of genuine leather?
Genuine
leather may contain subtle markings that distinguish
it from synthetic materials. It will typically be
warmer to the touch than leather imitation
materials. A large surface of leather is often sewn
with smaller pieces to ensure a more consistent
finish. To make leather products more affordable,
some furniture manufacturers color match top grain
leather with splits of vinyl on the outside back
6. How can
I tell if the genuine leather I’m buying is good
quality?
All
genuine cowhide leathers are good quality and a good
investment. Some leathers are softer, slightly
warmer to the touch, more pliable and slightly
heavier than others.
7. I’ve
heard leather furniture is hot in the summer and
cold in the winter. Is that true?
Definitely
not true. That misconception is associated with
vynil. Leather’s many tiny pores enable it to breath and
adjust to your body temperature. Leather remains
pliable and comfortable regardless of the
temperature. Think of long haul truck drivers, these
nice folks spend many hours in their trucks in both
winter and summer, often wearing shorts. Well guess
what, their truck sits are covered in genuine
leather.
8. How do
I take care of my leather furniture?
Genuine
leather is treated with protective products at the
factory. Regular dusting with a damp, clean cloth is
advised. A Leather care kit and conditioner is not
only necessary but also highly recommended.
9. Are
some types of leather or colors easier to take care
of than others?
Leather
with heavier pigment (opaque coloring) and corrected
grain are the easiest to care for. Aniline leathers,
with transparent color, require more delicate care.
Darker colors tend to hide dirt and soil more easily
than lighter colors.
All leathers can be repaired or refinished.
10. What
happens to leather over time? Does it change or wear
out?
Aniline
leathers, with their light protection, may produce
an aged "patina" finish over time adding to their
natural character. Protected pigment leathers will
become more subtle and soft over time. Leather
outlasts synthetic materials such as Rayon and
Microfiber 4 to 1, Fabrics up to 8 to 1, and will not
easily show wear. Leather will not tear and is
difficult to puncture. All leather and synthetic
materials have a tendency to fade if subjected to
direct sunlight for long periods of time.
Leather
Care and Cleaning
Experience the beauty of leather, one of nature’s
wonderful durable goods. The tanning process gives
it resistance to wetting and keeps it supple. Its
high tensile strength makes it a flexible material
that will stretch yet retain its shape. Best of all
leather “breathes”, so it will assume your body
temperature rapidly. Warm and inviting, leather
furniture entices you to sit and relax.
Nature loves to be creative, so each piece of
leather is individual. Shade can change throughout a
piece, and these freckles of life are what gives
leather its character.
Leather is susceptible mainly to three types of damage:
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Stiffness and surface
cracking caused by the drying out of natural oils,
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Fiber discoloration as
a result of accidental spills or sun exposure, and
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Scuffing and tearing
usually caused by a sharp object or abrasive.
As well,
soiling build up can work into leather. This can be addressed by simply using the
special care products and directions outlined here
to both clean and protect your leather. After all,
you purchased leather furniture because of its
reputations for a long life. Why not give it a long
healthy life?
So, how do
we take care of our beautiful leather sofa. Think of
this for moment, let's say we bought a brand
new leather sofa set it in our living room and never
use it for 20 years. What do you think would happen.
Chances are, it will slowly disintegrate right
before our eyes. Why?, because leather is a natural
product, it needs to be used, touched, treated. What
happens if you never condition your skin? It will
dry up and scale and gradually shed off. Leather is
much the same. It needs to be not only conditioned,
but also used. By using your leather, you are
constantly transferring small amounts of your own
body oils onto it, you cooking, even your breathing
is actually beneficial to your leather furniture.
Small particles of cooking oils and moistures which
are naturally present in your household all
contribute in keeping your leather furniture soft
and hydrated.
Have you
ever owned a brand new leather jacket? Or even
a pair of leather shoes for that matter, well when
you buy a new leather jacket or pair shoes, they
feel stiff, hard and heavy, as you start using
them however and most importantly "touching" them,
they will become softer and more pleasant to the
touch, they will get better with age as a
matter of fact. So don't be afraid to use you
leather sofas, the more you use it the better will
get and the less conditioning it will need.
It is an excellent idea to purchase a leather
treatment kit with your leather sofas. This not only
will give you all you need to take care of your
sofas, but it will also normally give you several
years insurance against accidental punctures, rips,
cuts, burns and the like.
Brand
New Sofa
Let's get down to it and treat our brand new sofas.
As soon as you get your sofas delivered, treat them
with your leather conditioner. this is a very easy
process, it should not take any more than 5 minutes
per piece. You simply apply some conditioner to a
clean cloth (never directly on the sofa) wipe the
entire sofa lightly with the conditioner evenly.
Wait a few minutes and you will see like a light
patina forming on the leather. Take a clean dry soft
cloth and wipe (polish) lightly the sofa. you're
done.
Once Per Week
Dust your sofas weekly or when you dust
the other items in the room. Lightly dampen a soft
cloth and wipe the surface. One of the great
benefits of leather is that you can fully remove
dust particles from the surface, making it ideal for
dust-sensitive people.
Four times a
year
After full cleaning, apply Leather Protection Cream
(conditioner) to renew the original protection level. Be sure to
reapply the Leather Protection Cream to all high
usage and skin contact areas like seats, arms, front
railing and inside backs.
These steps take very little time and make a
dramatic difference in the overall appearance of
your leather furniture.
Note: Electric heating tends to dry the air in your
household more than forced air heating. If you have
electric heating consider conditioning your leather
sofas 5 times a year instead of 4. Note: If you
purchased a sofas made of combination leather/vinyl,
treat the vinyl parts as if they were leather, this
will not only assure the two materials age uniformly
but also tends to transfer some of the dyes back and
forth from both materials making them look more
uniformly over time.
Additional Tips on
Leather Care
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Try to maintain at
least two feet between your furniture and heating
sources
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Avoid placing your
furniture in direct sunlight. All materials will
fade over time when placed in direct sunlight. Authentic leathers are especially sensitive to
sunlight.
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Use a dampened soft
cloth to remove dirt and dust from your leather
furniture.
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Apply Leather
Protection Cream to help resist staining and
prevent overall soiling.
-
Do not use any products
not recommended by the manufacturer as they may
negatively affect the leather’s surface.
BACK TO TOP
Microfiber
Microfibers feel soft and plush to the touch, yet
they are incredibly durable. Microfibers are
naturally stain-resistant and easy to care for.
They are built to withstand everyday
wear-and-tear. Microfiber is the ultimate fabric
for today's active lifestyle.
One
of the most important developments in recent
years has been the technology to extrude
extremely fine filaments (less than 1.0 denier)
while maintaining all of the strength,
uniformity and processing characteristics
expected by textile manufacturers and consumers.
These “microfibers” are even finer than luxury
natural fibers, such as silk.
This comparison, coupled with their exceptional
performance, has led some in the industry to
refer to microfibers as “supernatural”. They
live up to that name.
In many product lines, it is the luxurious
feel and look of the fabrics which makes
microfibers so special. In others, it is this
unique physical and mechanical performance.
Consider, for example, the advantages of
polyester microfiber when used in outerwear. A
raincoat or jacket made from 100% microfiber
will be much lighter and more comfortable than
one made from conventional fibers. Since the
small filaments pack very closely together, they
provide a wind barrier to prevent loss of body
heat and assuring comfort on chilly days. This
close packing of fibers, together with
polyesters' natural resistance to wetting also
gives the fabric the ability to repel rain.
The non-wetting surface of the fibers causes
water to form beads (like rain on a newly-waxed
car). These beads are much larger than the
spaces between the yarns and water is
effectively locked out. And this is done without
the need for chemical treatments or coatings
which can make the fabric heavier and less able
to "breathe". Fabrics from microfibers,
on the other hand, breathe well. Although the
spaces between the yarns are too small to be
penetrated by liquid water, they are ample for
the passage of moisture vapor, leaving the
wearer dry and comfortable.
This is only one example. Microfiber yarns
are now available for most major generic fibers.
They can bring their outstanding performance to
a wide variety of end uses. Today microfiber
furniture outsells fabric furniture 3 to 1. the
only drawback of microfiber if we want to find
one, is that it only comes in solid colors, no
patterns, no stripes, maybe in future.
With a soft
comfortable feel and the revolutionary stain
resistance and cleanability, microfiber
is the latest innovation in upholstery fabric. Microfiber is a man made fiber with the
sophisticated look and comfortable feel of suede.
Microfiber brings you the elegant look and feel of
suede without sacrificing the durability that is
required to take on the wear and tear of everyday
life. Microfiber gives you the ability to
put the family back in the family room. With a
seemingly unlimited amount of fabric colors and
furniture styles available, this revolutionary upholstery
material offers you almost unlimited choices to suit anyone's
personal tastes in creating the perfect Home
Environment.
Microfiber
upholstery is furniture is easy to care
for, easy to clean and easy to live with.
Everyday spills like coffee, wine and even
ballpoint pen are no match for the high-tech cleanability of this advanced microfiber.
Take the worry out of your family room and
allow the family back in with the
revolutionary Durapella®
upholstery collection. Durapella®
is the look that lasts.
Mycrofiber is truly a
pleasure to own and a breeze to maintain. Here are
some microfiber cleaning tips.
Clean
spills and dirt of any kind first by taking up as
much as possible of the stain of dirt with an
absorbent paper towel. Do not rub on the stain but
compress on it instead. Once done that, place a
small am ount
of mild hand or face soap such as Dove, Ivory or
similar product on a damp (not soaked) clean
sponge. Rub the area in a circular motion until
the stain or dirt spot has dissolved. Allow to air
dry completely. Very important: Do not
use a blow dryer as it could melt the synthetic
fibers within the material. Once dry, use a
clean clothes brush to brush the area in order to
restore it's natural appearance.
BACK TO TOP
Fabric
Gather your friends and family together in style
and comfort. Fabric is still the only way to go if
what you are looking for is a wide variety of sofas
to fit your lifestyle. If you are looking for
sophisticated patterns or beautiful flowery designs,
in a world of monotones... then fabric is your
choice. Indulge in the tradition of beautiful
fabric sofas.
While it is important to
get a sofa in just the right color and style, it is just as
important to get one that will last. Inexpensive
furniture can break, pop springs, and look out of
shape within a year of constant use. Quality
construction will offer years and years of enjoyment.
Choose the Style of
Cushions
First decide if you
prefer the look of loose back cushions or
attached. Loose cushions give you the option
of turning the pillows as needed, while
attached backs won't need fluffing or
rearranging. Be sure to sit in the sofa you
are considering. Is it comfortable? Are the
arms the right height for taking a nap or
reading a book?
How Many Cushions?
How many seat
cushions would you like? One cushion offers a
clean modern look while two or three are
traditional. When you sit on the cushions, do
they stay in place or do the corners flare up?
Are they attached to the frame with a clip to
hold them down?
What style of arm do
you like?
Choose an arm style:
armless, traditional rolled arm, curved
English arm, or a straight contemporary style. The
rolled arm has a flat front panel and is often
outlined in cording. English style is rounded
at the front, with fabric formed into
sunburst-type pleats. Straight arm sofas are
most often seen in modern or contemporary settings.
Skirted or Bare
Legs?
Do you want a skirted
sofa or one with the visible legs? Choose from
leg styles that vary from heavy square chunks
and wide bun feet to more delicate tapered
legs or carved and curved formal versions.
Legs are usually available in a number of
finishes as well.
Understand Frame
Construction
The best are made
from kiln-dried hardwoods (oak, maple, poplar,
etc.), while inexpensive furniture is made
from softer pine lumber. Interior construction
is important as well. Cheap furniture is
stapled together and has haphazardly
constructed corner bracing. Better frames are
securely screwed together.
Understand Seat
Construction
Find out how the seat
support system is made. Does it have
quality 8-way tied springs or wire
coils?
Choosing the Cushion
and Pillow Filling
The cushion and
pillow filling are important to the feel of a
sofa. Upholstery foam comes
in several thicknesses and weights,
traditionally a 1.8 density is the standard,
some sofas will have up to 2.2 density, (the
higher the density, the firmer the cushion)
these cushions will feel heavier and harder to
sit on, some folks prefer this type of firm
sitting over a more plushier "sinking" type of
seating. Some cushions feature actual spring
coils inside a foam core for added support and
durability. Understand these options for the sofa
you want and which might be best for you.
Choose the Fabric
Choose a fabric for
your sofa. Chenille is soft and durable.
Velvets and other fabrics look lovely but may
wear out with heavy use over the years.
Normally, the higher the cotton content the
faster a fabric will wear. On the other hand,
the higher the synthetic content, the less
"natural" a fabric will feel. |
Fabric
Care and Cleaning
Experience the beauty of your fabric for longer.
Chances are you took time and care in choosing the
fabric upholstery. Whether it’s the focal point of
the room or an enhancement factor, the longer it
maintains its colour and character, the happier
you’ll be.
It is always recommended that you invest in a
fabric treatment at time of purchase, this will not
only insure you against accidental rips, cuts, tears
and the likes but it will also give you actual Teflon
Based Fabric Protector treatment, which not only
adds an estimated 40% durability to your fabric but
it also makes it easier for
you to maintain your furniture. Fabric protection
treatment basically "coats" the fibers with a Teflon
base. This will in turn not only make the fibers
waterproof but will also "close" (or almost close)
the gaps and spaces between the fibers themselves
minimizing the possibility of intrusion by dust,
pollens pets hair and other allergens with obvious
advantages especially if you suffer from any
allergies.
Fabric care is easy and inexpensive. Here are some
tips:
-
Weekly vacuuming
and
light brushing helps to remove soil and prevents
the embedding of dirt between the fibers.
-
Rotate and turn your
cushions after vacuuming to prevent excessive wear
and soil patterns.
-
Avoid placing
newspapers on fabric since the ink could
permanently stain the fabric.
-
Avoid the use of dyes,
acids, corrosives, paints, inks, nail polish and
removers around your furniture.
-
Contrary to popular believe, you should never remove cushion
covers for dry cleaning or machine washing even
though they have zippers. The zippers are there to
re-stuff or re-adjust the original stuffing. Clean
your cushions as you would normally clean any
other part of the sofa.
-
Keep upholstered
furniture away from direct sunlight to avoid
fading.
BACK TO TOP
Have questions about buying wood
furniture? You're not alone. With the range of
styles, finishes and colors available, buying wood
furniture can seem overwhelming. Here are some
commonly asked questions & answers.
1. How do I tell if the
furniture I'm buying is good quality?
Open drawers and look for
signs of quality, such as construction technique and
joint assembly. Joint techniques like dove tailing,
or dowel are superior to others. Slide drawers in
and out to determine their fit, and safety functions
like drawer stops. Test the piece for stability -
well manufactured products are rigid, and sturdiest
in areas receiving the most stress or bearing the
most weight. Finally, inspect the composition and
finish - is it solid wood, laminate, or is it
veneer, and what kind of finish and sealant
completes the piece.
2. What’s the difference between
solid wood, veneer and laminate? There’s so much out
there, and it’s hard to tell what I’m buying.
Solid Hardwood means the grain of the lumber will
carry through the core. Solid hardwood allows for
pieces to be carved or lathe-turned, offering more
detail in the wood’s presentation.
Hardwood Veneers are thin slices of wood, bonded
to another composite wood product like plywood or
particle board.
Laminates are a printed imitation hardwood
surface that is applied usually to a composite wood
product like particle board. This simulated wood
grain or other pattern is reproduced out of paper,
plastic or foil and then bonded to the base product.
Because laminating is a surface treatment, this
process doesn’t allow for any carving or detailing
in the finish and is typically more simple in
appearance.
3. I can afford it, would solid
wood be the best choice?
With advances in technology, today’s combination
of wood veneers and laminates may be difficult to
distinguish from solid wood composition. Solid wood
furniture is an investment and has it’s benefits,
but it’s more susceptible to changes in humidity
than a veneered or laminate piece. In a dry
environment wood contracts, while in moist
conditions it expands. Inspect how the manufacturer
has compensated for humidity changes. Solid woods
products usually are made in smaller pieces and
glued to make up larger surfaces which prevents
warping and cracking with changes in humidity.
4. What's the difference between
softwoods and hardwoods?
Softwoods, such as pine, spruce, and fir are from
coniferous (needle bearing) trees, and are picked
for their casual earthly appearance. Hardwoods such
as, oak, maple, and ash come from deciduous (leaf
bearing) trees, and have been used throughout
history for the finest furniture and architectural
detail. Most hardwoods are stronger and are less
likely to dent than softwoods. Hardwoods are
generally used in the construction of upholstery
frames to secure nails and screws in high impact
areas.
5. There's such a price
difference between types of wood furniture is it
true that you get what you pay for?
Prices are determined by
the style and quality of the piece and whether it
was made of solid wood, veneer, laminate or a
combination. Whether it was imported or locally
manufactured can also affect price. Cost of products
made from laminates, which are simple in design and
construction, are usually lower priced than those
made of solid wood.
6. Is there anything I should be
aware of when I move my furniture around?
First, follow any shipping, unpacking or assembly
instructions supplied by the manufacturer. Most
manufacturers strongly suggest you lift your
furniture rather than pushing or dragging it.
Typically, the more you move it, the more
susceptible it becomes to damage.
7. Are there any tips on
selecting a style that I'll be happy with for many
years? What should I consider when selecting a style
of furniture?
Furniture preferences are personal.
Carefully consider where and
how the piece will be used in your home. Buying classic or traditional styled
furniture will never be a mistake - the traditional
look is timeless.
8. Should there be a finish on
the wood? Is it necessary to "oil" a product to keep
it from drying out?
Oiling furniture was the original method used to
preserve/protect the life of wood products. However
it is a high maintenance process, and doesn’t offer
adequate protection for the wood. Today, most wood furniture should be finished or
covered in a sealant to close off the pores of the
grain. Sealers produce a smooth level surface, while
offering protection from heat, dryness, moisture and
alcohol. A sealant can also enhance or alter the
colour of the wood product.
9. Are some kind of woods easier
to take care of, and how do I care for/clean wood
furniture?
The type of finish on your wood furniture will
determine how easily your furniture can be cleaned.
The care of any wood is based on the wood’s finish
and how it’s treated, not the wood itself. The
better the finish, the longer the product will
maintain its appearance. Today, casegoods are
usually finished with a sealant that requires only
wiping with a damp cloth. Review the manufacturer’s
instructions about the care of your specific finish.
10. How do I repair my furniture
if it gets scratched or nicked? Can I do it myself?
Solid wood products, can usually be repaired, by
sanding and refinishing with a touch-up kit. If the
product is treated with a manufacturer’s seal,
consult your retailer for repair instructions or
purchase a touch-up kit. Veneered and laminated
products may also be re-finished, however a
professional should be considered for more severe
damage. As always, it is highly recommended that you
invest in a wood protection plan at time of
purchase, this will not only insure you against many
types of accidental mishaps like dropping an object
on a surface, water and liquid rings, cigarette
burns etc, but it will also give you several years
warranty should any defects or problems develop with
your furniture over time.
Hard Surface Wood
Care and Cleaning
Experience the beauty of wood, the strong,
lightweight, natural product. Hard maple, pin, ash,
red oak- each is unique in depth, richness of
texture and grain patterns. Quality wood furniture
creates a warm elegance and gentle comfort. If
properly cared for, wood increases in value with age
and develops its own patina or surface appearance of
softness and mellowness.
Part of wood’s beauty is its imperfections. Knots,
mineral deposits, worm holes and unusual grain
patterns give it character. Each piece is as
individual as a fingerprint and will take stain
slightly different, even two boards from the same
tree. This is inherent to wood and is not a defect
unless it interferes with the product giving
satisfactory service.
Manufacturers striving to obtain a particular look
incorporate wood imperfects and other slight
irregularities into the finished product. This is
especially true of casual styles like country and
colonial. If such production “flaws” are
objectionable to you, perhaps you should be looking
for a more formal style.
You may notice a gap in the center of leaf tables or
at the ends where half-tops and filler leaves meet.
Solid wood will expand and contract due to humidity
conditions in the home. The extent of the gapping
will vary as humidity conditions change. Expansion
and contraction cause these gaps, which are natural
characteristics of solid wood.
Wood Care
and Tips
-
Keep
furniture away from heating and air condition
sources to prevent loss of moisture in wood, and
out of direct sunlight to avoid bleaching of wood.
-
To prevent gouging and
scratching use felt backing on lamps, ashtrays,
and accessories.
-
Always use place mats
under plates, hot pads under service dishes and
coasters under hot and cold drinks.
-
Do not set synthetics,
rubber or plastic directly on wood finishes as
they may contain chemicals that will damage the
finish.
-
Do not place newspapers
and magazines on wood surfaces as the ink will
bleed into the finish and eventually damage the
wood.
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