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Furniture     Care Tips    

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Dear friend.

Your home furnishings are a major investment. In this page you will find some simple steps you can take to keep your new furniture looking their best. You'll also find some smart tips on how to minimize wear, prevent and remove common household stains. As well as a wealth of information that will help you understand the different choices in styles and  types of furniture coverings, leathers and wood finishes.


Leather

Leather is one of the most durable upholstery materials available. Choosing leather is a long term investment in beauty and durability. Today's wide selection of leather colors, grades and finishes, coupled with a designer's bounty of style options, lets you create the look you want, for many years to come.

Understanding Leather...

Natural / Full aniline / Semi-aniline

For a leather look that ages gracefully and delivers a sophisticated message, choose one of the natural grades. Naturals include full and semi-aniline grades with full anilines being luxurious and smooth--the softest of the leather grades. Semi-anilines are more durable naturals.

Protected / Pigmented / Split leathers

Your active family household can enjoy the beauty of real leather when you choose one of the protected grades. Pigmented, split leathers are treated to create a durable finish that stands up to everyday living with children and pets,. without sacrificing fashion or function.

Buying Leather

Have questions about buying leather furniture? You're not alone. With the range of styles, grades and colors available, buying leather furniture can seem overwhelming. Here are some commonly asked questions & answers.

1. Where do leathers come from and why are there so many choices and price differences?

Leather is sourced from all over the world. Furniture leathers come primarily from tanneries in South America, Germany and Italy. Every leather is individually assessed for its quality and use, resulting in a range of prices and grades which allow you to match your leather to your budget and lifestyle.

2. How is leather made?

The leather process
The processing of hides and skins into leather is a fascinating procedure that requires a precise combination of many chemical and mechanical operations. Below a step-by-step summary of these processing operations.
 
CUTTING
A hide of genuine leather is nature's product and caution must be exercised in cutting one. The diagram below shows various areas of a hide and they are cut as follows:
Section A, the prime portion of the hide, should be used for seat tops, inside backs, cushion bands, and other sections that will receive the most strain and usage.
Section B should be used for outside arms, backs, hidden bands, or other parts of furniture that will receive little or no usage. The flank sections must be used on outside backs and non-wearing surfaces.
 

CURING
Deterioration begins immediately when a cow is killed. After the hides are removed from the carcass, they are salted through and through at the slaughterhouses to prevent decay. After they are salted, 55% of the water in the hide is removed, and t
hey are dried for 3 to 6 days. The rawhides are then sold to tanneries.
SOAKING
In order for the tanning process to work properly, the dry salted hides must be washed free of the salt. This is done by soaking the hides in water to which chemical wetting agents (similar to household detergents) and disinfectants are usually added for 8 to 20 hours, depending on the thickness of the hides. This soaking procedure re-hydrates the hides to their original flaccid condition and removes the dirt.
DE-HAIRING
The hair must now be removed from the hides, (left photo). This is done by soaking the hides in chemicals, or depilatory agents, which destroy the hair by attacking the hair root so it will release freely from the hides, loosen the epidermis, and remove certain soluble skin proteins that lie within the hide substance without destroying the desirable collagen of the hides.
FLESHING
Excess flesh, fat and muscle must now be removed from the hides. This is done with a fleshing machine.
DE-LIMING
All the depilatory chemicals must now be removed from the hides. This is done by washing the hides in ammonium sulfate or ammonium chloride and then clear water in big drums (right photo). These chemicals not only clean the depilatory chemicals from the hides, they also adjust the acid-alkaline conditions (pH) to the proper point for receiving the bate-which are enzymes similar to those found in the digestive system of animals. When the bates are applied, they attack and destroy most of the remaining undesirable constituents of the hide.
PICKLING
The hides must be placed in an acid environment (low pH) so they will be ready to accept the tanning materials, because chrome tanning agents are not soluble under alkaline conditions. This is accomplished by adding salt and acid to the hides. This is a preserving process in itself, and hides can be kept in this state for extended periods of time without any deterioration.
 

TANNING
The raw collagen fibers of the hides must be converted into a stable product which is no longer susceptible to rotting. This is done by adding chrome tanning agents to the hides in a revolving drum. These tanning agents also significantly improve the hide"s dimensional stability, abrasion resistance, resistance to chemicals and to heat, the ability to flex innumerable times without breaking, and the ability to endure repeated cycles of wetting and drying.
WRINGING
The excess moisture must be removed from the hides. This is done by placing each hide through two large rollers similar to those on a clothes wringer.
SPLITTING
The hides must now be split into the desired thickness. Un-split hides average to be 5mm thick. The thickness for upholstery leathers range from .9mm to 2.0mm. The hides are put through a splitting machine that is set to split the hides to the desired thickness. It cuts the top grain off first (right photo). Another layer, and sometimes two, are cut. These layers are called splits.
SHAVING
The thickness of the hides must be made uniform all over the hide. This is done with a shaving machine through which the hides are run. The helical shaped cutting blades level the overall thickness to exact specifications and open the fiber structure to better receive subsequent chemical processing.
RE-TANNING
This process is done to impart special end-use properties with other tanning chemicals. The substances used add solidity and body to chrome leather and help minimize variations in the character of the leather that may still exist between different parts of the hide (left photo).
COLORING
As soon as the re-tanning process is completed, aniline dyes, derived primarily from petroleum and added to very hot water, are added to rotating drums to penetrate the hides for desired color.
FAT LIQUORING
This is the last of the wet chemical operations to which the leather will be subjected. Fat liquoring has the most pronounced effect on how soft a leather will be and it contributes greatly to its tensile strength. The more fat liquors that are added, the softer the hides will be.
SETTING OUT
This operation smoothes and stretches the hide, while compressing and squeezing out the excess moisture. This puts the hides in the proper condition for drying.
TOGGLING
The hides are stretched across a perforated frame and held in place with clips called toggles. One hide is clipped to each side of the frame. The frames are then slid into channels in drying ovens.
STAKING
Leather is staked to make it pliable. In combination with the correct fat liquoring treatment, staking governs the final firmness or softness of the leather (right photo).
DRY MILLING
The hides are placed in a large dry drum and tumbled until the desired softness is obtained.
BUFFING
This process improves the final appearance of the hides by lightly sanding the surface to remove some of the natural imperfections such as scratches, healed scars, etc. It provides the hide with better cutting yield.
FINISHING
This process applies film-forming materials on the surface of the hide. Here is where layers of pigments are added if required. This process also adds the protective sealant to the surface.
PLATING (EMBOSSING)
This is the final step in the leather process (left photo). During this process, heat presses a chosen grain into the surface of the hides.

 
 
 

3. What is the difference between top grain and split grain?

At the tannery, a leather hide is split into 2 layers – top grain and the lower grain or "split." The lower, bottom grain is the flesh piece and may be split one or more times. The lower grain is likely to be used on the outside parts of a piece of furniture.

4. The information I’ve heard about aniline and pigment finishing is confusing. What does it all mean and does it really make a difference?

Every tanned hide is finished.

Pigment: protective opaque color which coats the grain very consistently. It is the most durable, stain resistant finish but is slightly cooler to the touch.

Semi-aniline: combines aniline with pigment to enhance uniformity in color and soil resistance while remaining soft to the touch

Aniline: clear (transparent) organic stain, which colors but doesn’t coat completely. It is less stain resistant, but leaves the hide softer, more pliable and warmer to the touch.

5. How can I tell if my furniture is made of genuine leather?

Genuine leather may contain subtle markings that distinguish it from synthetic materials. It will typically be warmer to the touch than leather imitation materials. A large surface of leather is often sewn with smaller pieces to ensure a more consistent finish. To make leather products more affordable, some furniture manufacturers color match top grain leather with splits of vinyl on the outside back

6. How can I tell if the genuine leather I’m buying is good quality?

All genuine cowhide leathers are good quality and a good investment. Some leathers are softer, slightly warmer to the touch, more pliable and slightly heavier than others.

7. I’ve heard leather furniture is hot in the summer and cold in the winter. Is that true?

Definitely not true. That misconception is associated with vynil. Leather’s many tiny pores enable it to breath and adjust to your body temperature. Leather remains pliable and comfortable regardless of the temperature. Think of long haul truck drivers, these nice folks spend many hours in their trucks in both winter and summer, often wearing shorts. Well guess what, their truck sits are covered in genuine leather.

8. How do I take care of my leather furniture?

Genuine leather is treated with protective products at the factory. Regular dusting with a damp, clean cloth is advised. A Leather care kit and conditioner is not only necessary but also highly recommended.

9. Are some types of leather or colors easier to take care of than others?

Leather with heavier pigment (opaque coloring) and corrected grain are the easiest to care for. Aniline leathers, with transparent color, require more delicate care. Darker colors tend to hide dirt and soil more easily than lighter colors. All leathers can be repaired or refinished.

10. What happens to leather over time?                         Does it change or wear out?

Aniline leathers, with their light protection, may produce an aged "patina" finish over time adding to their natural character. Protected pigment leathers will become more subtle and soft over time. Leather outlasts synthetic materials such as Rayon and Microfiber 4 to 1, Fabrics up to 8 to 1, and will not easily show wear. Leather will not tear and is difficult to puncture. All leather and synthetic materials have a tendency to fade if subjected to direct sunlight for long periods of time.

Leather Care and Cleaning

Experience the beauty of leather, one of nature’s wonderful durable goods. The tanning process gives it resistance to wetting and keeps it supple. Its high tensile strength makes it a flexible material that will stretch yet retain its shape. Best of all leather “breathes”, so it will assume your body temperature rapidly. Warm and inviting, leather furniture entices you to sit and relax.

Nature loves to be creative, so each piece of leather is individual. Shade can change throughout a piece, and these freckles of life are what gives leather its character.

Leather is susceptible mainly to three types of damage:

  • Stiffness and surface cracking caused by the drying out of natural oils,

  • Fiber discoloration as a result of accidental spills or sun exposure, and

  • Scuffing and tearing usually caused by a sharp object or abrasive.


As well, soiling build up can work into leather. This can be addressed by simply using the special care products and directions outlined here to both clean and protect your leather. After all, you purchased leather furniture because of its reputations for a long life. Why not give it a long healthy life?

So, how do we take care of our beautiful leather sofa. Think of this for  moment, let's say we bought a brand new leather sofa set it in our living room and never use it for 20 years. What do you think would happen. Chances are, it will slowly disintegrate right before our eyes. Why?, because leather is a natural product, it needs to be used, touched, treated. What happens if you never condition your skin? It will dry up and scale and gradually shed off. Leather is much the same. It needs to be not only conditioned, but also used. By using your leather, you are constantly transferring small amounts of your own body oils onto it, you cooking, even your breathing is actually beneficial to your leather furniture. Small particles of cooking oils and moistures which are naturally present in your household all contribute in keeping your leather furniture soft and hydrated.

Have you ever owned a brand new leather jacket?  Or even a pair of leather shoes for that matter, well when you buy a new leather jacket or pair shoes, they feel  stiff, hard and heavy, as you start using them however and most importantly "touching" them, they will become softer and more pleasant to the touch, they will get better with age as  a matter of fact. So don't be afraid to use you leather sofas, the more you use it the better will get and the less conditioning it will need.  

It is an excellent idea to purchase a leather treatment kit with your leather sofas. This not only will give you all you need to take care of your sofas, but it will also normally give you several years insurance against accidental punctures, rips, cuts, burns and the like.

Brand New Sofa                                                                                                                                                                  Let's get down to it and treat our brand new sofas. As soon as you get your sofas delivered, treat them with your leather conditioner. this is a very easy process, it should not take any more than 5 minutes per piece. You simply apply some conditioner to a clean cloth (never directly on the sofa) wipe the entire sofa lightly with the conditioner evenly. Wait a few minutes and you will see like a light patina forming on the leather. Take a clean dry soft cloth and wipe (polish) lightly the sofa. you're done.

Once Per Week
Dust your sofas weekly or when you dust the other items in the room. Lightly dampen a soft cloth and wipe the surface. One of the great benefits of leather is that you can fully remove dust particles from the surface, making it ideal for dust-sensitive people.

Four times a year
After full cleaning, apply Leather Protection Cream (conditioner) to renew the original protection level. Be sure to reapply the Leather Protection Cream to all high usage and skin contact areas like seats, arms, front railing and inside backs.

These steps take very little time and make a dramatic difference in the overall appearance of your leather furniture.                Note: Electric heating tends to dry the air in your household more than forced air heating. If you have electric heating consider conditioning your leather sofas 5 times a year instead of 4. Note: If you purchased a sofas made of combination leather/vinyl, treat the vinyl parts as if they were leather, this will not only assure the two materials age uniformly but also tends to transfer some of the dyes back and forth from both materials making them look more uniformly over time.


Additional Tips on Leather Care

  • Try to maintain at least two feet between your furniture and heating sources

  • Avoid placing your furniture in direct sunlight. All materials will fade over time when placed in direct sunlight.          Authentic leathers are especially sensitive to sunlight.

  • Use a dampened soft cloth to remove dirt and dust from your leather furniture.

  • Apply Leather Protection Cream to help resist staining and prevent overall soiling.

  • Do not use any products not recommended by the manufacturer as they may negatively affect the leather’s surface.

 

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Microfiber

Microfibers feel soft and plush to the touch, yet they are incredibly durable. Microfibers are naturally stain-resistant and easy to care for. They are built to withstand everyday wear-and-tear. Microfiber is the ultimate fabric for today's active lifestyle.

One of the most important developments in recent years has been the technology to extrude extremely fine filaments (less than 1.0 denier) while maintaining all of the strength, uniformity and processing characteristics expected by textile manufacturers and consumers. These “microfibers” are even finer than luxury natural fibers, such as silk. This comparison, coupled with their exceptional performance, has led some in the industry to refer to microfibers as “supernatural”. They live up to that name.

In many product lines, it is the luxurious feel and look of the fabrics which makes microfibers so special. In others, it is this unique physical and mechanical performance.

Consider, for example, the advantages of polyester microfiber when used in outerwear. A raincoat or jacket made from 100% microfiber will be much lighter and more comfortable than one made from conventional fibers. Since the small filaments pack very closely together, they provide a wind barrier to prevent loss of body heat and assuring comfort on chilly days. This close packing of fibers, together with polyesters' natural resistance to wetting also gives the fabric the ability to repel rain. The non-wetting surface of the fibers causes water to form beads (like rain on a newly-waxed car). These beads are much larger than the spaces between the yarns and water is effectively locked out. And this is done without the need for chemical treatments or coatings which can make the fabric heavier and less able to "breathe". Fabrics from microfibers, on the other hand, breathe well. Although the spaces between the yarns are too small to be penetrated by liquid water, they are ample for the passage of moisture vapor, leaving the wearer dry and comfortable.

This is only one example. Microfiber yarns are now available for most major generic fibers. They can bring their outstanding performance to a wide variety of end uses. Today microfiber furniture outsells fabric furniture 3 to 1. the only drawback of microfiber if we want to find one, is that it only comes in solid colors, no patterns, no stripes, maybe in future.

With a soft comfortable feel and the revolutionary stain resistance and cleanability, microfiber is the latest innovation in upholstery fabric. Microfiber is a man made fiber with the sophisticated look and comfortable feel of suede. Microfiber brings you the elegant look and feel of suede without sacrificing the durability that is required to take on the wear and tear of everyday life. Microfiber gives you the ability to put the family back in the family room. With a seemingly unlimited amount of fabric colors and furniture styles available, this revolutionary upholstery material offers you almost unlimited choices to suit anyone's personal tastes in creating the perfect Home Environment.

Microfiber upholstery is furniture is easy to care for, easy to clean and easy to live with. Everyday spills like coffee, wine and even ballpoint pen are no match for the high-tech cleanability of this advanced microfiber. Take the worry out of your family room and allow the family back in with the revolutionary Durapella® upholstery collection. Durapella® is the look that lasts.

Mycrofiber is truly a pleasure to own and a breeze to maintain. Here are some microfiber cleaning tips.

Clean spills and dirt of any kind first by taking up as much as possible of the stain of dirt with an absorbent paper towel. Do not rub on the stain but compress on it instead. Once done that, place a small amount of mild hand or face soap such as Dove, Ivory or similar product on a damp (not soaked) clean sponge. Rub the area in a circular motion until the stain or dirt spot has dissolved. Allow to air dry completely. Very important: Do not use a blow dryer as it could melt the synthetic fibers within the material. Once dry, use a clean clothes brush to brush the area in order to restore it's natural appearance.

 

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Fabric

Gather your friends and family together in style
and comfort. Fabric is still the only way to go if what you are looking for is a wide variety of sofas to fit your lifestyle. If you are looking for sophisticated patterns or beautiful flowery designs, in a world of monotones... then fabric is your choice. Indulge in the tradition of beautiful fabric sofas.

 

While it is important to get a sofa in just the right color and style,   it is just as important to get one that will last. Inexpensive furniture can break, pop springs, and look out of shape within a year of constant use. Quality construction will offer years and years of enjoyment.

Choose the Style of Cushions

First decide if you prefer the look of loose back cushions or attached. Loose cushions give you the option of turning the pillows as needed, while attached backs won't need fluffing or rearranging. Be sure to sit in the sofa you are considering. Is it comfortable? Are the arms the right height for taking a nap or reading a book?

How Many Cushions?

How many seat cushions would you like? One cushion offers a clean modern look while two or three are traditional. When you sit on the cushions, do they stay in place or do the corners flare up? Are they attached to the frame with a clip to hold them down?

What style of arm do you like?

Choose an arm style: armless, traditional rolled arm, curved English arm, or a straight contemporary style. The rolled arm has a flat front panel and is often outlined in cording. English style is rounded at the front, with fabric formed into sunburst-type pleats. Straight arm sofas are most often seen in modern or contemporary settings.

Skirted or Bare Legs?

Do you want a skirted sofa or one with the visible legs? Choose from leg styles that vary from heavy square chunks and wide bun feet to more delicate tapered legs or carved and curved formal versions. Legs are usually available in a number of finishes as well.

Understand Frame Construction

The best are made from kiln-dried hardwoods (oak, maple, poplar, etc.), while inexpensive furniture is made from softer pine lumber. Interior construction is important as well. Cheap furniture is stapled together and has haphazardly constructed corner bracing. Better frames are securely screwed together.

Understand Seat Construction

Find out how the seat support system is made. Does it have quality 8-way tied springs or wire coils?

Choosing the Cushion and Pillow Filling

The cushion and pillow filling are important to the feel of a sofa. Upholstery foam comes in several thicknesses and weights, traditionally a 1.8 density is the standard, some sofas will have up to 2.2 density, (the higher the density, the firmer the cushion) these cushions will feel heavier and harder to sit on, some folks prefer this type of firm sitting over a more plushier "sinking" type of seating. Some cushions feature actual spring coils inside a foam core for added support and durability. Understand these options for the sofa you want and which might be best for you.

Choose the Fabric

Choose a fabric for your sofa. Chenille is soft and durable. Velvets and other fabrics look lovely but may wear out with heavy use over the years. Normally, the higher the cotton content the faster a fabric will wear. On the other hand, the higher the synthetic content, the less "natural" a fabric will feel.

Fabric Care and Cleaning

Experience the beauty of your fabric for longer. Chances are you took time and care in choosing the fabric upholstery. Whether it’s the focal point of the room or an enhancement factor, the longer it maintains its colour and character, the happier you’ll be.

It is always recommended that you invest in a  fabric treatment at time of purchase, this will not only insure you against accidental rips, cuts, tears and the likes but it will also give you actual Teflon Based Fabric Protector treatment, which not only adds an estimated 40% durability to your fabric but it also makes it easier for you to maintain your furniture. Fabric protection treatment basically "coats" the fibers with a Teflon base. This will in turn not only make the fibers waterproof but will also "close" (or almost close) the gaps and spaces between the fibers themselves minimizing the possibility of intrusion by dust, pollens pets hair and other allergens with obvious advantages especially if you suffer from any allergies.

Fabric care is easy and inexpensive. Here are some tips:

  • Weekly vacuuming and light brushing helps to remove soil and prevents the embedding of dirt between the fibers.

  • Rotate and turn your cushions after vacuuming to prevent excessive wear and soil patterns.

  • Avoid placing newspapers on fabric since the ink could permanently stain the fabric.

  • Avoid the use of dyes, acids, corrosives, paints, inks, nail polish and removers around your furniture.

  • Contrary to popular believe, you should never remove cushion covers for dry cleaning or machine washing even though they have zippers. The zippers are there to re-stuff or re-adjust the original stuffing. Clean your cushions as you would normally clean any other part of the sofa.

  • Keep upholstered furniture away from direct sunlight to avoid fading.

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WOOD

Nothing comes close to the warmth and beauty of a beautiful dining room set. Your dining room is where you will spend  many a Christmas together with your family and friends. Choose from a large selection of Contemporary, Tropical, Old World or Country styles. 

Have questions about buying wood furniture? You're not alone. With the range of styles, finishes and colors available, buying wood furniture can seem overwhelming. Here are some commonly asked questions & answers.

 

1. How do I tell if the furniture I'm buying is good quality?

Open drawers and look for signs of quality, such as construction technique and joint assembly. Joint techniques like dove tailing, or dowel are superior to others. Slide drawers in and out to determine their fit, and safety functions like drawer stops. Test the piece for stability - well manufactured products are rigid, and sturdiest in areas receiving the most stress or bearing the most weight. Finally, inspect the composition and finish - is it solid wood, laminate, or is it veneer, and what kind of finish and sealant completes the piece.

2. What’s the difference between solid wood, veneer and laminate? There’s so much out there, and it’s hard to tell what I’m buying.

Solid Hardwood means the grain of the lumber will carry through the core. Solid hardwood allows for pieces to be carved or lathe-turned, offering more detail in the wood’s presentation.

Hardwood Veneers are thin slices of wood, bonded to another composite wood product like plywood or particle board.

Laminates are a printed imitation hardwood surface that is applied usually to a composite wood product like particle board. This simulated wood grain or other pattern is reproduced out of paper, plastic or foil and then bonded to the base product. Because laminating is a surface treatment, this process doesn’t allow for any carving or detailing in the finish and is typically more simple in appearance.

3. I can afford it, would solid wood be the best choice?

With advances in technology, today’s combination of wood veneers and laminates may be difficult to distinguish from solid wood composition. Solid wood furniture is an investment and has it’s benefits, but it’s more susceptible to changes in humidity than a veneered or laminate piece. In a dry environment wood contracts, while in moist conditions it expands. Inspect how the manufacturer has compensated for humidity changes. Solid woods products usually are made in smaller pieces and glued to make up larger surfaces which prevents warping and cracking with changes in humidity.

4. What's the difference between softwoods and hardwoods?

Softwoods, such as pine, spruce, and fir are from coniferous (needle bearing) trees, and are picked for their casual earthly appearance. Hardwoods such as, oak, maple, and ash come from deciduous (leaf bearing) trees, and have been used throughout history for the finest furniture and architectural detail. Most hardwoods are stronger and are less likely to dent than softwoods. Hardwoods are generally used in the construction of upholstery frames to secure nails and screws in high impact areas.

5. There's such a price difference between types of wood furniture is it true that you get what you pay for?

Prices are determined by the style and quality of the piece and whether it was made of solid wood, veneer, laminate or a combination. Whether it was imported or locally manufactured can also affect price. Cost of products made from laminates, which are simple in design and construction, are usually lower priced than those made of solid wood.

6. Is there anything I should be aware of when I move my furniture around?

First, follow any shipping, unpacking or assembly instructions supplied by the manufacturer. Most manufacturers strongly suggest you lift your furniture rather than pushing or dragging it. Typically, the more you move it, the more susceptible it becomes to damage.

7. Are there any tips on selecting a style that I'll be happy with for many years? What should I consider when selecting a style of furniture?

Furniture preferences are personal. Carefully consider where and how the piece will be used in your home. Buying classic or traditional styled furniture will never be a mistake - the traditional look is timeless.

8. Should there be a finish on the wood? Is it necessary to "oil" a product to keep it from drying out?

Oiling furniture was the original method used to preserve/protect the life of wood products. However it is a high maintenance process, and doesn’t offer adequate protection for the wood. Today, most wood furniture should be finished or covered in a sealant to close off the pores of the grain. Sealers produce a smooth level surface, while offering protection from heat, dryness, moisture and alcohol. A sealant can also enhance or alter the colour of the wood product.

9. Are some kind of woods easier to take care of, and how do I care for/clean wood furniture?

The type of finish on your wood furniture will determine how easily your furniture can be cleaned. The care of any wood is based on the wood’s finish and how it’s treated, not the wood itself. The better the finish, the longer the product will maintain its appearance. Today, casegoods are usually finished with a sealant that requires only wiping with a damp cloth. Review the manufacturer’s instructions about the care of your specific finish.

10. How do I repair my furniture if it gets scratched or nicked? Can I do it myself?

Solid wood products, can usually be repaired, by sanding and refinishing with a touch-up kit. If the product is treated with a manufacturer’s seal, consult your retailer for repair instructions or purchase a touch-up kit. Veneered and laminated products may also be re-finished, however a professional should be considered for more severe damage. As always, it is highly recommended that you invest in a wood protection plan at time of purchase, this will not only insure you against many types of accidental mishaps like dropping an object on a surface, water and liquid rings, cigarette burns etc, but it will also give you several years warranty should any defects or problems develop with your furniture over time.

Hard Surface Wood Care and Cleaning

Experience the beauty of wood, the strong, lightweight, natural product. Hard maple, pin, ash, red oak- each is unique in depth, richness of texture and grain patterns. Quality wood furniture creates a warm elegance and gentle comfort. If properly cared for, wood increases in value with age and develops its own patina or surface appearance of softness and mellowness.

Part of wood’s beauty is its imperfections. Knots, mineral deposits, worm holes and unusual grain patterns give it character. Each piece is as individual as a fingerprint and will take stain slightly different, even two boards from the same tree. This is inherent to wood and is not a defect unless it interferes with the product giving satisfactory service.

Manufacturers striving to obtain a particular look incorporate wood imperfects and other slight irregularities into the finished product. This is especially true of casual styles like country and colonial. If such production “flaws” are objectionable to you, perhaps you should be looking for a more formal style.

You may notice a gap in the center of leaf tables or at the ends where half-tops and filler leaves meet. Solid wood will expand and contract due to humidity conditions in the home. The extent of the gapping will vary as humidity conditions change. Expansion and contraction cause these gaps, which are natural characteristics of solid wood.

Wood Care and Tips

  • Keep furniture away from heating and air condition sources to prevent loss of moisture in wood, and out of direct sunlight to avoid bleaching of wood.

  • To prevent gouging and scratching use felt backing on lamps, ashtrays, and accessories.

  • Always use place mats under plates, hot pads under service dishes and coasters under hot and cold drinks.

  • Do not set synthetics, rubber or plastic directly on wood finishes as they may contain chemicals that will damage the finish.

  • Do not place newspapers and magazines on wood surfaces as the ink will bleed into the finish and eventually damage the wood.
     

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